Cycling Tour Prague to Kraków

Cycling Tour Prague (Czechia) to Kraków (Poland)

Prague - Czechia

An invitation to attend a commemorative ceremony at the Ministry of Defence of the Czech Republic was the catalyst for this particular trip to Prague. It was an invitation Jen felt compelled and honoured to accept, as it was the formal recognition of her father, Jaroslav Stuchlý’s, resistance to the Communist regime from 1948 to 1954. Since 2018 Jen had been communicating with the Head of the Czech Department for War Veterans who had tracked her down through the internet and a blog she had posted with a photo and reference to her father. After much correspondence to verify who she was, an invitation was received to a ceremonial acceptance of the Medal and Certificate of Resistance Against Communism in Memoriam to Mr John William Stukely (formerly Jaroslav Stuchlý). The ceremony was to be held at Prague Army House Conference Hall, Prague 6, on 30th April 2019.

Ministry of Defence Invitation and Medal

Greg was supportive of attending but suggested to add a bike tour to Krakόw.  The planning quickly swung into place starting with our official visit to Prague, spend a few days there (easy to do), ride our way to Krakόw over two weeks and then catch the train back to Prague.  On the way we could explore a little more of Jen’s father's life story, his escape in 1939 out through Poland when Germany occupied Czechoslovakia, and the Czechoslovakian Army was disbanded. This would give us the opportunity to soak up more of the enchanting Czech countryside with a small excursion into Poland, culminating in a few days in the beautiful city of Krakόw.

Once again packing our trusty Merida road bikes, and now being able to pack and wear our newly designed Connal Kit range of cycle clothing, we flew from Perth, Western Australia to Prague (via Dubai), arriving on 28th April 2019. Our booked transport was waiting for us, and after teaching the young driver how to flatten the rear seats in his van to accommodate our oversized bike bags, we were delivered to our Hotel Marketa, located in a quiet residential area close to Prague Castle.

We had a day to revisit many of our favourite places, catching trams, walking and pausing in warm cafes and pubs when sustenance was required. The following day was the day of the Ceremony we had been invited to attend, the whole reason for making this particular trip. It proved to be a very solemn and moving experience with 28 recipients and their invited guests plus representatives of the Armed forces and the Czech government. 

Ceremony at the Czech Ministry of Defence in Prague

That evening we spent back in the Old Town attending a concert of Vivaldi, Mozart, Smetana, Beethoven and others with the Prague Philharmonic Chamber Orchestra, a soprano and solo violinist in the Týn Church. 70 minutes of pure music in an iconic place at the heart of a magnificent culturally rich city. 

Prague to Nymburk via Mělník - Cycle Day 1 - 107.3km 706vm. Wednesday 1st May.

First task was the step-by-step navigation from our hotel to the river and the zoo to get us out of Prague city. Finally after about 7km, we crossed the Vltava River, then headed north past the Zoo and followed cycle route #2 along the eastern bank of the river.

Vltava River cycle route #2

Turning away from the river and heading for Mělník there was a bit of a climb from the river valley up and over to the other side. At about 45 km we reached Mělník, once a royal dowry town. Up again and into the old town & Chateau Mělník – the Castle, overlooking the strategic confluence of the rivers Vltava & Elbe (Labe).

Mělník  - confluence of the rivers Vltava & Elbe (Labe)

Leaving Mělník, finding the cycle route and headed towards Nymburk. Spring had sprung with acres of bright yellow canola and birdsong in the forests and roadside apple and cherry trees. People fishing in rivers, small lakes and ponds with deck chairs perched on the banks. Countless small villages along the way. We arrived Nymburk 6:30pm, tired and very happy with our huge room at the Hotel Ostov on the Elbe River. The Hydro-electric bridge - Zdymadlo Nymburk, over which we walked to reach the old medieval city walls and entered the old town and the main Přemyslid Square. A young student we chatted to was amazed to see Australians and so happy we were seeing more of Czechia than Prague. 

Mělník - confluence of the rivers	Nymburk - riverside

Nymburk to Kutná Hora - Cycle Day 2 - 50km 300vm. Thursday 2nd May.

Leaving Nymburk we followed the river on an excellent bike path. Lots of little villages along the way. Detoured into Poděbrady, established 1472, an old spa town with many manicured parks and gardens in Lázeňský Park. 

Poděbrady - worthwhile detour.	Statue of T.G. Masaryk 1st President

Continuing on to Kolin, again on the river, through large stretches of agricultural acreages. Our approach was along a cycle track next to the railway line. After a little difficulty we found the old town centre and emerged into Karlovo nám, a cobbled pedestrian centre with fountain and column, surrounded by many cobbled streets and well-preserved historic buildings. Once again more markets tempting us with strawberries & apricots.

Kolin - Karlovo nám

From Kolin we cycled through more canola fields, before a steady climb up through the cool green forests and over to Kutná Hora. Once labelled a silver treasury of the Bohemian Kingdom, the Silver Mountain, city of Kings. Kutná Hora was established as a mining camp in the 13th century, becoming a royal city in the 14thC, and because of its wealth competed with Prague for economic, cultural and political power in the region being one of the richest cities in Europe. The historical medieval cobbled Town Centre, which is UNESCO listed, is dominated by the magnificent gothic Cathedral of St Barbara. Our walk around town uncovered many treasures some of which we would return to in the morning. 

Our accommodation, Aparment 1 at Café Havlíček Penzion, near St James’ Church - Kostel sv. Jakuba, provided us with a large room, our own courtyard for the bikes and a separate entrance area. 

Kutná Hora	Cathedral of St Barbara

Kutná Hora to Pardubice - Cycle Day 3  57.65km 306vm. Friday 3rd May. 

Before leaving Kutná Hora we explored a bit more of this beautiful and historic city. A guided tour of the replica medieval silver mine followed by the Czech Museum of Silver which recalls the history of the city’s silver mining which peaked 14th & 15thC.

A return visit to the atmospheric gothic Cathedral of St Barbara to once again take in its internal and external magnificence with its 3 tent like spires marking the three hills surrounding Kutná Hora, protected by the huge flying buttresses.

A drizzly and cold day. We cycled through Sedlec (another UNESCO listed site) and back into the very green and rolling Czech countryside, with splashes of golden fields of canola and many more villages. Getting ourselves slightly off track, before correcting ourselves after stopping at a bus stop to check our maps and reorientate. So many road junctions and signs, often with village names we can’t find on our maps, makes for quite slow going. We had a zigzag climb, with hairpin bends up into Eastern Bohemia through thick shady green forests with views down over rich farmlands.  

Our first rest was at Prelouc for coffee & honey cake (that became lunch). The cycle track took us on forest trails and even some single track through fields. We weren’t sure what would be next, or even if the route would continue, but eventually made our way onto the Elbe cycle way which took us all the way into Pardubice along the River Elbe and easily to our hotel, arriving at 4:45pm. Our Hotel Zlata Stika on Strossova Street, left us with an easy walk over the river and into the cobbled streets of the old city and the main Town Square dominated by Zelena Brana (Green Gate Tower 60m tall). 

Pardubice  - Pernstynske nám

Pardubice - Rest Day - Saturday 4th May.

The city of Pardubice has a striking and well-preserved historic centre and square with many good restaurants and bars. We walked to the Main Square - Pernstynske nám & Trida Miru as the main pedestrian street. Discovered Pardubice Castle (Zamek) surrounded by Tyrsovy Sady Park, the heart shaped gingerbread (Pardubický perník) an edible symbol of the city. On the bank of the Chrudimka River, stand the Automatic Mills (Automaticke mlyny) being redeveloped as a vibrant cultural quarter. 

Pardubice - Automatic Mills now a cultural quarter

A sobering discovery was the memorial site where 194 Czech patriots were executed by the Nazi regime at the Zámeček execution site between 3 June and 9 July 1942. 
Finally a very welcome, very strong, Pernštejn Pardubice Porter (19%).

Pardubice to Litomyšl - Cycle Day 4 - 72.75km 864vm. Sunday 5th May.

No rain but a very brisk day ranging from 6 to 11 degrees for most of the day. Navigating continues to be a challenge as there is a village every 3-5km with multiple road choices in each village, going off at all angles.

Just after Dachov, at 31km, we arrived at the Ležáky memorial area, which we had planned to visit. The fate of this village, along with the village of Lidice (burned 2 weeks prior on June 10 1942), was a German Nazi revenge for the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich (May 27, 1942, died June 4, 1942), carried out by SOE Czechoslovak parachutists. These two villages were used as symbolic revenge scapegoats with the vindictive aim to erase these villages and their inhabitants from existence, to be silenced and removed from history. On 24th June 1942 the Nazis exterminated the stonecutters hamlet of Ležáky.  The green and peaceful memorial site now stands as a symbol of remembrance and hope and heroism, as it stands as a silent, empty memorial to war crime victims. Commemorating the heroism of ordinary people & their involvement in the resistance movement against Nazism.

Ležáky memorial site

On the road again, cycling in silence with our own thoughts about our visit to Ležáky, through countless more villages, some small, some large with their own castles. Steady climb to about 480m then a long forest downhill run through what appears to be a National Park - prirodni rezervace Mastale. The peace and quiet of the countryside and forest was calming and reassuring. Entering the village of Nové Hrady we were surprised with the beauty of its castle. A final climb from Chotovice and then downhill through villages to our destination of Litomyšl just before dusk. 

A quick approach into the centre and onto cobbled streets and we found ourselves in the longest city ‘square’ we’ve ever seen, lined with colonnaded arcades and amazing building facades. Very much a ‘wow’ moment. This 500 metre long ‘square’ (with a kink in the middle) had our hotel perfectly positioned at one end looking down the length of the square. 

Litomyšl - the view of the 'square' from our room

A beautiful, exhausting day, full of stunning places with such a depth of history and strength of culture. Lots of rolling countryside, chocolate earth, soft green forests, small country villages. The whole day was a really beautiful cycle route - we loved this ride.

An evening sunset walk took in the beauty of Litomyšl Castle, described as an arcaded Renaissance country residence of Italian design built between 1568 and 1581 with thousands of sgraffitos decorating the façade and magnificent gables. Yet another UNESCO listed site. 

Litomyšl to Olomouc - Cycle Day 5 - 101km 1085vm.  Monday 6th May.

Another cold day 4-14 degrees. With 2 ranges to cross the inclines kept us warm. Leaving our hotel, we cycled the length of the square, rattling over the cobbles & up and through the castle grounds full of graceful sculptures. 

Litomyšl Castle grounds

Leaving Litomyšl it was back into beautiful countryside, stretches of rolling farmland with golden canola crops and up many hills into deep green forests. Once again through countless villages every 3-5 km, all with interconnecting roads requiring constant stopping and choosing our desired direction. At some point we crossed from Eastern Bohemia into the region of Moravia. 

With the temperature dropping to around 6 degrees, our expectations were raised when we saw the towers of a distant castle on a hill and wondering if our route would take us near. We kept following the winding road up another long steep climb and emerged at the village of Bouzov, with the Castle perched high above the village.

A lot more beautiful countryside unfolded before us, then we came across a cycle way on the outskirts and finally a formal cycle way all the way into the old centre of Olomouc, arriving about 6pm tired and cold. Our route into the centre was a busy, narrow street shared with trams. Today really made us appreciate that we had booked our accommodation in advance. Trying to find a central place to stay in 4 degrees, nearing dusk, without knowing the language, tired, cold and hungry, would have been testing. Miss Sophie's Hotel was a perfect welcoming, where we could spend the next 2 nights.

Olomouc - Rest Day - Tuesday 7th May.

A slightly warmer day encouraged us to walk and explore this beautiful city.  Olomouc was once the royal capital of Moravia, situated on the Moravia River. It is a vibrant university city with about 10,000 students in a population of about 105,000. We filled our day with Moravian modern art, architecture and city centre gazing at first Horni nám (Upper Square) and then Dolni nám (Lower Square), both full of wonderful sculptures, columns and fountains. Joined in with some student celebrations and the Majáles parade (student May Parade celebrating spring and student life) and finally viewed the cathedral and museum. A day full of Moravian art, culture and history, student exuberance, multiple squares, ornate fountains, columns, sculptures. Local beer, Moravian wine, pungent Olomoucy cheese, coffee & hot chocolate. A lively and lovely city.

Olomouc to Štramberk - Cycle Day 6 - 84.6km 1255vm. Wednesday 8th May.

Sunny, warmer and up to 21 degrees. Today we cycled from grain country to a mountain village. We followed the #5 Cycle Trail Greenway, an excellent bike track along the Bečva River from Lipník nad Bečvou to Hranice. A pause here to reflect on some more family history - here at the Hranice Military Academy, was where Jaroslav (Jen's Dad) had trained and undergone officer training, when he joined the Army prior to WWII and returned after WWII as a Professor of Military Tactics.  

After making a wrong turn up a very steep hill, and seeing a nice view across to a hilltop town, which we soon realised was our destination of Štramberk. Backtracking, we made our way up a seriously steep approach (10% up to 16%), to our destination with our accommodation in the centre of the old town on top of the hill. This fairytale, hill village has many timbered buildings, reflecting rural Wallachian architecture, with log walls and shingle rooves and steep cobbled streets. We found the town brewery for dinner - Městský Pivovar Štramberk, local beers and meat dishes with dumplings. 

Štramberk

Štramberk to Komorní Lhotka - Cycle Day 7 - 47.4km 588vm. Thursday 9th May.

More hills ahead we feared, as we headed east towards Poland. Drizzly rain, grey 8 degrees, our first wet day and we were wearing most of our clothing. The steep cobbled streets taking us down, were wet and slippery as we left this hilltop town past the wooden buildings. From here we were up and down quite steep hills. Stopping for lunch at Palkovice. Cycled through many nice villages, up the west side of the Morávka valley to Raškovice, crossing the bridge over the Morávka River with the border mountains as a backdrop.

Thankfully the road took us east and around the northern end through a gap in these mountains, not over them. We arrived about 4 pm in Komorní Lhotka, a village in the Frýdek-Místek District, and found Hotel Säntis a couple of kilometres out towards the edge of the village, overlooking a bubbling Raztoka River on a dark, green and well shaded street. Our arrival was timely as the temperature was again below 5 degrees and the rain persistent.

We had chosen our route through here as Jen was searching for the place where Jaroslav (her Dad) escaped from the Nazis on 20th May 1939 as a young Czech Army officer with a small group of fellow officers.  They crossed the Morávka River - somewhere near Visni Lhoty, then up and through the forest and over the mountains to arrive in the small border town of Komorní Lhotka (which in 1939 was a small Polish border town, Ligotka Kameralna, but now Czech). From here they were taken to Těšín (Polish Cieszyn), then by train to Krakόw, where he was processed as a military refugee #J887 (registered on 25/5/1939) and housed at the Tourist House on the main square and provided food. Their route from Krakόw was to the port of Gdynia near Gdańsk. Boarding a ship to take them to Le Havre (France), where he and many of the Czechoslovak officers joined the French Foreign Legion. 

Komorní Lhotka to Kęty - Cycle Day 8 -74.7km 744vm. Friday 10th May. Crossing from Czechia to Oświęcim County, Poland. 

Early on we hit a mass of yellow cycle route signs, none of which we related to. We needed to keep heading East to our destination of Kęty in Poland, which was not on a dedicated Czech cycle route as we were heading for a border crossing. From rolling hills of lush agriculture to heavy industry, literally over the next hill. Třinec had large steel, gas, power and engineering ... including Linde Group ... loud and right in our face as we cycled past.  Třinec Iron and Steel Works (TŽ) being the largest in the country along with other major industries. 

But then, up yet another hill, we quickly left industry behind and were back in the countryside and arriving at the Czechia - Poland border. 

The border was a non-event, an old building with red bricks, roof and the green booths, being the only evidence of prior drive through checkpoints. At a closer look we found the old white stone border markers defining the border line. Czechia and Poland have kept their own currencies, so it was time to find the first town, an ATM to change money, change language & get used to different signage.

With a very large black cloud threatening us, we finally arrived at the city centre of Bielsko-Biala. The cobbled city square was vibrant and full of cafes and restaurants. Our chosen cafe kindly directed us to the nearest bank to withdraw some zloty enabling us to have our first Polish treat of coffee & honey cake.

Just before Kęty we crossed the Vistula (Wisla) River, the longest river in Poland, as it came down from the mountains on its way north through Krakόw, Warsaw and out to the Baltic at Gdansk. That huge black cloud was now squarely in front of us as we cycled on to Kęty. We were fortunate to miss the rain, which had obviously just passed through the town prior to our arrival. Our hotel was conveniently on the market square making for an enjoyable evening of wandering and finding food and drinks. 

Kęty to Krakόw -  Cycle Day 9 - 73km 543vm. Saturday 11th May.

After a beautiful breakfast at Kęty, we set off in bright sunshine which made it a shorts and short sleeve day. We changed our planned route for today, so we felt we were rolling into the unknown. We planned well, and it was a fabulous final cycling day. More rolling hills, green vistas, forest roads and a few strange sights along the way.

After a rest in the forest at Tomice, a long gradual climb took us up to be looking over a vast plain of green & gold colours dotted with little brick houses on small acreages. Once down off the lofted plateau, it was a continual downhill, with many rivers and creeks to cross, including a ferry crossing. Some cool forest cycling and then the discovery of the Vistula River cycle path leading us all the way into the heart of the old city of Krakόw. Rounding a bend in the river our destination burst upon us with hundreds of people walking, cycling & sunning themselves on the riverbanks, boats, university rowers, paddle steamers, with the castle standing guard. 

What a stunning entrance - much better than approaching by train through the suburbs or by car on the motorway. Wow - a bit mind blowing to emerge from 11 days of relatively quiet country riding, quiet towns and small villages into this heaving mass of humanity, as we cycled up from the river, around the Wawel Royal Castle and then walked along the crowded main street leading into the expansive main market square (Rynek Główny) dating from the 13thC. Beautifully paired carriage horses clopping along the cobbles, the two towers of St Mary's Basillica dominating the main square, with the colonnaded market arcade, the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) occupying the centre and surrounded by historic townhouses and churches. We now had 4 nights in an apartment close to the city centre to explore this wonderful city. 

We made it - Prague to Krakόw, Czechia to Poland. Total cycling tour Prague to Krakόw: 9 cycling days 2 rest days; 668 km 6391vm. 

Krakόw - Auschwitz Birkenau - Sunday 12th May.

Our first day out was a cultural & historical experience not to be missed if you come this way. Not a place to go by choice, but more one of necessity, in respect of those slaughtered in the holocaust and their families. We had booked a day trip to Oświęcim - Auschwitz Museum & Birkenau. Our young local guide was passionate to get the message across "that we must not forget the atrocity, that we must always fight against secular ferocity".

Auschwitz I and Museum is damning ... this camp was largely kept intact when the Allied forces came through. Auschwitz II Birkenau, the main extermination camp, the nazis destroyed a lot before the Allies arrived. But it maintains a haunting presence.

It started to rain and get very cold down to 10 degrees but feeling like 5.5 degrees. This cold drizzly day was appropriate for a mind numbing, sorrowful, questioning of humanity tour of a cold dark terrible inhumane, absolutely shockingly horrible piece of our recent human history. 

No way will photos or words explain how we felt and experienced this day and it will stay with us forever. These sites are a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site. A place of remembrance. We mustn’t let prejudice & power overcome humanity. In memory of the millions of innocents. 

Krakόw - Monday 13th May.

A day of walking and exploring the Old City - St Mary's Basilica, Main Square - Rynek Glowny, Sukiennice (oldest shopping center with arcade style undercover stalls each side), the main historic cobbled pedestrian Floriańska Street, City walls and gates, green Planty Park (surrounding the Old City), and finally to Kazimierz, the Old Jewish quarter from 14thC. Now a revived, historic, cultural, creative and interesting district. Street art and streets used in movies (Schindler's List). Wonderful bars and restaurants to tempt us.

Krakόw - Tuesday 14th May.

Today was cold and wet and an excellent opportunity to tour the UNESCO listed salt mines - Wieliczka Kopalnia Solni - dating back to about the 14th Century. Underground we went for a tour lasting about 2 hours. The scale of the salt mines is astounding with kilometres of tunnels and endless chambers, cathedral like halls, chapels and salt sculptures.

Once again, we were drawn to the Jewish quarter Kazimierz with its incredible history, an extremely interesting Jewish bookstore, and some pretty awesome Jewish food at our chosen dinner restaurant.

Krakόw to Prague - Cycle Day 10 - 7.52km 253vm. To and from the train stations. Wednesday 15th May.
First step was to ride our predetermined route through the centre of Krakόw and Planty Park to the main railway station.

Second step was to catch the train from Krakόw to Prague that we hoped we had the right tickets to include the bikes. Train pulls up - NO cycle wagon appeared on the train! Kind guard shrugged his shoulders and indicated to put the bikes in the first compartment (for 6 people) and take our seats in the next compartment. We had the next 7 hours in quiet contemplation. Stopping many times, picking up speed and sometimes just slowly rumbling along. People often looking into compartment 1 full of 2 bikes with no people, then having to find seats elsewhere on the train. We feigned innocence.

As we journeyed back over the countryside, we had just recently cycled, we caught glimpses of villages, orchards, potholed back roads, forests, that looked familiar. A stork nest on top of a power pole. The mistletoe bunching in the trees. Bright fields of canola, forested hills, rivers and streams. From the train there is no clue to the hidden treasures in these towns, no sense of the grand entry into an old town square which served the parading of royalty hundreds of years ago when transport was by foot or horse. Crossing Czechia from east to west, finally, at 5:45pm our train pulled into Praha hln.

Third Step was to get out of Prague station, navigate and cycle across town. First to nám Vaclavské (Wenceslas Square), cycling down this to the bottom, turned left then wandered on the wet cobbled streets through the old town to the river. Walked over Charles Bridge (riding not allowed), walked and rode up to the Monastery at the top past the Pražsky hrád (Prague Castle), then to our Hotel Marketa arriving at 7:15pm.

Prague Thursday 16th May.

Our return to Prague was brief. A quick tram #2 trip to visit to the Ministry of Defence to collect a CD of photos, from the ceremony when we first arrived. Then rode the trams & metro to visit a few favourite spots and discovered some new ones. The day had passed, time to pack the bikes and book the taxi to the airport the next day. 

Prague Friday 17th May.

Not wanting to leave and with still some time on our tram tickets from yesterday, we did a quick tram ride down to the castle. Walked down from the top entrance to the castle. Being early, the guards were not yet on duty, just army personnel, and very few tourists.
Our minibus delivered us to the airport in good time for our Emirates flight home departing at 3pm. 

This trip was our fourth visit to Czechia and Prague and will not be the last. It has become like an old friend and very much a happy place to be. We uncover more layers each time we visit. Jen feels a deep sense of 'being on country' when in her father's homeland. 

Why we Cycle:

Travelling in the train or the bus, really clarified our feelings and why we love to travel by bike. The beauty of cycling. 

On the train and in the bus (or a car) we felt enclosed in a cocoon, closed off, apart from the visual, to the world we moved through, no connection, no feeling, no sounds, or smells. We see the soft green forests passing by on each side with muddy forest tracks, but don’t hear the birds or the wind in the trees or the roll of our wheels over the rough ground. We don't hear the dogs barking or see them rush the fence as we ride by. We don’t smell the forest or the rain. We don’t feel the wind or the raindrops on our faces. We don’t feel the bees brush past our face, don’t see or feel the blossom as it drifts by and floats to the ground making a soft carpet. We don’t smell the agricultural smells, the cattle or the nearby piggery or the canola field, or the puff of exhaust as a truck accelerates past us. We don’t hear the varied engine noises of approaching cars, motorbikes, scooters, tractors, trucks, buses. We don’t know what the temperature is outside. We are warm and snug and relaxed in a cocoon, but missing so much of what makes the countryside and villages. When travelling through new surroundings, observation levels are higher, seeing interest & beauty in the everyday things, but there is more than just seeing. That's why we cycle. 

Prague to Krakόw Cycle Tour Summary
10 cycling days; 2 rest days. Total 676km; 6644vm; Av/day 74km for 9 main days (excluding train day). 

Map of Cycle route Prague to Krakόw

 

... Jen and Greg
A 2019 cycle tour finally written in 2025.

Flag and Coat of Arms of Czechia
Flag and Coat of Arms of Poland