Cycling the Scottish Highlands

Cycling Tour Scottish Highlands   

The idea of cycling in Scotland was hatched 2 years prior following our cycle through the Pyrenees. Finishing one journey and started planning the next. We were at the beginning of developing our cycling clothing brand Connal Kit. The brand name and this ride were inspired by the discovery of a photo of Jen’s mother (Katharine Connal) taken in 1934 whilst on a summer cycling holiday in the Scottish Highlands. We also found several postcards she had written to her parents and posted along the way. Using these we attempted to plot their route completed in 1934 This and Greg's research into his mother's Crawford ancestry influenced our cycle route in the Scottish Highlands. Their cycle tour in 1934 from 31/7/1934 to 9/8/1934. 12 Days 660 km. Katharine Connal (Kate) aged 22, and girlfriend Mabel Howat both Leeds University Students, staying in Hostels and with friendly farmers. The Connal family, of course with Scottish origins, would have been the reason for Kate's own tour to trace some of her own heritage.

Another family connection to the Scottish Highlands was to pay tribute to the Czechoslovak Special Operations Executive (SOE) paratroopers who trained in Arisaig during WWII, of whom Jen's father was one. Greg also having family heritage in the Crawford Clan. 

Our own Scottish Highland Cycle Tour: 16 days; 1060 km; 11787vm (August-September 2018) staying in B&Bs and Hotels. A map of our Scotland Cycle is at the end of this blog. 

Our cycling adventures tend to be 6 weeks or longer to get fair value from the long-haul flights from Australia. This trip we decided to fly into and out of Edinburgh, Scotland from our State Capital of Perth in Western Australia. After our cycle in Scotland, we met with our good friend Tony in Edinburgh and headed further south into England. Here the 3 of us cycled the Coast to Coast from St Bees to Whitby. See Cycle Tour England Coast to Coast.

Getting into the Scottish groove

Arriving in Edinburgh with our bikes we spent the first 6 days with a hire car exploring an area we were not going to be cycling through but which my mother and her friend had cycled through in 1934. This settled us into the Scottish landscape, gave us a feel for the roads and traffic we were likely to encounter and gave us a taste of what was to come. Edinburgh to Inverness via the Cairngorms, Glen Shee and returning to Glasgow via the Dee Valley, Glen Shee, Stirling and Falkirk.

Heading north over the Queensferry Crossing Bridge, staying at Kingsbarns our first night. Popped into Saint Andrews to admire the Golf Course and visit the cathedral. Continuing on past the Scottish Perth to Scone Palace. To Blairgowrie and through the Cairngorms National Park. On the A93 we think we recognised where the photo of Kate Connal had been taken in 1934. The A93 took us through Glen Shee which we know she rode through and had us wishing we were cycling this road too. Glorious vistas down the glen, with soft greens and heather on the hills. Rivers and streams, lots of sheep, stone cottages, stone bridges and some wildlife.

Passing through Braemar on our way to Elgin and two nights based at Burghead on the East Coast. It was in Elgin that we sought out, to no avail, the grave of George Crawford, Greg's 5xGreat-Grandfather, buried at Elgin Cathedral. He came across from Ireland in the 1790's to work as a bleacher in a flaxmill in Grantown. We went to Grantown and tried to find the site of Junners Toyshop, the home of Samuel Crawford (George's son), 'merchant', married Mary in 1798 at Elgin Cathedral.  We think we found Junners.

This enabled us to do a lovely loop drive following the Spey River through Nethy Bridge, Aviemore, Kingussie, to the Dalwhinnie Distillery returning to Burghead via Inverness and Culloden Moor (the battle ground to end the Jacobite Wars on 16^th April 1746).

Turning and heading south again via a coastal stop at Spey Bay, south to the Dee valley and back into the Cairngorms National Park. Visiting Ballater Royal Station, following the streams and forests to Crathie and Balmoral Castle (No Entry as Her Majesty the Queen was in residence). Stopping this time as we passed Braemar to visit the castle and the games grounds. Through Glen Clunie and over the pass at Devil’s Elbow once again into beautiful Glen Shee. A steep descent into Pitlochry, Aberfeldy (which was to be on our own cycling route), Crieff and finally to Doune for our last night prior to dropping our car back to Glasgow. Wow factor today apart from the wonderful landscapes, was visiting the enormous Kelpies (mythical aquatic beast with the power of 100 horses) in Falkirk (30m high steel sculptures of horseheads).

 
Returning via Stirling and a country route to avoid getting caught up in Glasgow traffic, we finally arrived in Helensburgh to drop our luggage and bikes before dashing with the car back to Glasgow to return the rental at the designated time of 2pm (got there at 2.02pm). Phew, then relax a little on the train back to Helensburgh. A couple of nights here with friends, to build our bikes and ready ourselves for the ride ahead. Our friends provided our starting and finishing base for our Scottish Highlands cycle. They also are the operators of the boats on Loch Lomond and gave us some good local tips and a lift across Loch Lomond on our first day. See Cruise Loch Lomond.

Cycle Scotland Day 1:

Helensburgh to Aberfeldy - 139.2 km 1552vm a long 8-hour day for our first day on the bikes. Farewelling our hosts, our first target was to cycle via Luss to Tarbet in time to catch the 10am Lomond Cruise boat to take us across the Loch to Inversnaid. What a treat to be ferried along and across the northern section of Loch Lomond, at 39km long, making it the largest stretch of inland fresh water in Britain. With misty views across Loch Lomond to Ben Lomond we were already eerily feeling the very nature of Scotland as we started our ride into this Rob Roy countryside. We were so excited to be starting another adventure.

Off the boat, and the legs had work to do. First a very steep climb out of Inversnaid over to Loch Arklet. Alongside this loch to Stronachlachar on Loch Katrine. Cycled along what appeared to be a private road around the end of and along the north side of Loch Katrine to End of Loch at Trossachs Pier. Time for lunch and chat to other local cyclists. Continuing on along Loch Venachar to Kilmahog just north of Callander. Then the A84 to Strathyre and onto National cycle route 7 via Lochearnhead and a very steep climb above A85 and across Glen Ogle. Onto lesser roads (A827), our path was varied in surface through forests, past rocks and waterfalls, so wild and beautiful. Arriving at Head of Loch Tay, Killin, we needed a hot chocolate before continuing along the very long Loch Tay, passing through Fearnan on a bend in the Loch and finally reaching Kenmore at the end of Loch Tay. Our final section along the quiet A827 to Aberfeldy was a relief after a long day and arriving just after 6pm at the very welcoming Balnearn House, Aberfeldy. Monday 27/8/2018.

Cycle Scotland Day 2

Aberfeldy to Rannock Station to Fort William. 62.2 km 716vm cycle, plus train from Rannoch Station to Fort William. We had a train to catch today at 3.12 pm and if we missed it we would be stuck in this very isolated part of the Scottish highlands overnight.

Aberfeldy – Scottish breakfast of porridge & honey, scrambled eggs & salmon had us well prepared for the day ahead. Leaving Aberfeldy over Wade’s Bridge (General Wade) over the River Tay past the Black Watch Memorial onto old Military Roads and the NCR7 with a very steep climb to start.

Between Aberfeldy and Kinloch Rannoch, we skirted around Schielhallion rising to 1083m in the west. A mystical mountain rich in superstition and legends: one of the 3 Holy mountains of the Druids (Mount Heredom); centre of Celtic Scotland; Robert the Bruce once took refuge here; astronomer Royal Neville Maskelyne used to measure density of the earth here; the Blue Hag of Rannoch (Cailleach Bheur); the swirling mists; the Fairy Hill of the Caledonians. Certainly a place steeped in folklore and history and the eerie presence of the past. Further reading: AD Cunningham’s “Tales of Rannoch”.

Cycling through high forested areas and open moors with wandering sheep, then down into the valley and another Loch. Here we came across our first herd of grazing highland cattle, before reaching Kinloch Rannoch and the start of Loch Rannoch.  We rode along the north shore of Loch Rannoch to reach the rather isolated Rannoch Station at 2pm in good time for soup, coffee and hot chocolate before our train arrived.

Train Rannoch to Fort William 3.12pm – 4.15 arrival.

This train took us where no roads go across the remote Rannoch Moor with streams and bogs everywhere with spagnum moss holding and releasing the water. Then between mountains with their summits in cloud, along Loch Treig and following the River Spean to Fort William where by now it was raining. Following a cycle path beside the busy A82 in the pouring rain to a B&B 6 km south of town. Not a good choice when cycling and raining and having to return to town for meals. Took the taxi option to town for dinner at Grog & Gruel Ale House. More Scottish delights. Fried haggis balls - Scotland on a plate - wee balls of Macsween haggis coated with oatmeal & whisky cream and Cullen skink pie - smoked haddock & West Coast salmon. Tuesday 28/8/2018

Cycle Scotland Day 3

Fort William to Fort Augustus. 60.64km 363vm
Cycling back into Fort William we had the looming, brooding cloud covered Ben Nevis on our right. The Corpach Shipwreck (Old Boat of Caol) lying at an odd angle on the shore of Loch Linnhe must be quite a sight when Ben Nevis emerges from the clouds as the backdrop.

This was to be a day of crossing from side to side of the Caledonian Canal and the Lochs as we made our way to Fort Augustus. While crossing the Caledonian Canal we were lucky to see the Jacobite Steam Train also crossing the bridge.

Returning to the Canal we came across Neptune’s staircase - longest staircase lock in UK. Boats lifted up 20m through 8 locks in 90 minutes. Completed in 1822 the Caledonian Canal connects west coast to east coast. At this point we were following the cycle path (tow path) on the south side of the canal (NCR78 & The Great Glen Way). Crossing by a farmer’s bridge at Moy with bridge keeper, (canal had split the farmer’s land) and continuing to Gairlochy and Clunes along Loch Lochy. This section was forest trails, rough with short steep hills, and downhills, sharp stones & potholes. Our 32mm tyres got us through.

We crossed over again at Kilfinnan, with a coffee & sandwich stop at the Laggan lock kiosk in South Laggan. Continuing on the south side we waited at the swing bridge at North Laggan as 1 boat passed, before continuing along Loch Oich – through forests and along an old railway to Invergarry railway station. We were following General Wade’s Military Road. At Aberchalder the path crossed to the north side of canal between canal and River Oich. 3 boats were lined up in lock which amused us for a while as we watched the process.

The canal path took us all the way into Fort Augustus and the opening to Loch Ness. Many boats queueing in the lock as there were several steps down into Loch Ness. The Old Bridge of Oich and the banks of Loch Ness provided an evening stroll. Some highland pipers were happily having a practice session at the Richmond House Hotel. Wednesday 29/8/2018 

Cycle Scotland Day 4

Fort Augustus – Inverness. 54.1km 822vm
Crossing the River Oich & the Caledonian Canal to cycle the south side of Loch Ness. On the B862 we were faced with 8.5km climb with 10-13% gradient, up to 16%, to get us to the stunning Carn an t-Suidhe viewpoint at 450m. Summit ride and view along this old military road but a cold descent to Whitebridge. Heading back towards the Loch on B852 we found Camerons Tearooms providing a needed coffee and scone peach crumble. Rain followed us into Foyers and along to Inverfarigaig.

Now cycling once again along Loch Ness, Urquarht Castle was just visible on the other side but alas no Nessy was spotted. Before leaving Loch Ness, we stopped at The Dores Inn for lunch. Then it was the final stage to ride into Inverness. Couldn’t resist a stop at a weaver’s shop showing the Scottish tartans. Walked and explored High Street, River Ness, Castle, City Hall. At the end of day 4, Jen pulled up with a very painful knee. The cause was yet to be determined. Our first crossing of Scotland coast to coast (West to East). Thursday 30/8/2018.

Cycle Scotland Day 5

Inverness to Lochcarron. 109km 756vm
Easily out of Inverness, down High Street, cross the pedestrian swing bridge over River Ness, then over the Caledonian canal and onto A862. Along Beauly Firth to Beauly. Very colourful with baskets dripping with petunias.

A832 at Muir of Ord, onto A835 to Contin. A wise stop at ‘the last shop before Ullapool’. A carved wooden sculpture of Highland animals - Highland cow, fox, squirrel, otter, owl, eagle, & thistle. Mainly farmland to this point then forests up to Garve. Turned west onto A832 at Gorstan with views to Loch Luichart. Very open moorland with small farms through Strath Bran (ravine) following the River Bran between Garve and Achnasheen with the trainline running nearby. A terraced glacial valley.

Even though a significant dot on the map at a junction of roads, Achnasheen, had no shops only a train Station. We took to A890 stopping at Ledgowan Lodge (hotel) for coffee & carrot cake. Old hunting lodge full of deer heads. Amazing rooms. Back on the bikes again proved difficult for Jen as the rhythm of slowly peddling had been working but as soon as this stops, the effort to start peddling again is becoming increasingly painful.

Just a little more uphill then amazing run-down Glen Carron. Another train sighted down lower in the valley. It had been a good road to this point! But then turned to single track, with lots of touring car groups - minis, sports etc. This section of road was dreadful single lane, very narrow, passing bays, with huge potholes on edge. We needed to pull over every time there was traffic in either direction, at least lots of friendly toots for doing so. Followed by a brand-new section. Jen by now running on half cylinder and in tears toward the end with all the stop/starting we had to do. Relief at last as we sighted the Lochcarron golf course closely followed by the village of Lochcarron on the waterfront. A much-needed beer at the pub before finding accommodation up Croft Road behind the village - the final killer climb at the end of day. But with a fabulous view over Loch Carron – a tidal sea Loch. From here it was walking back to the Main Street and dinner at the Hotel.
Our second crossing of Scotland coast to coast (East to West). Friday 31/8/2018

Cycle Scotland Day 6

Lochcarron. Greg 25km. Jen declared a full day of rest with ice packs, anti-inflammatory rubs and rest. With a view like this (above) she started to mend.

A full cooked breakfast followed by a walk down to the Main Street where we watched a local Cyclo Sportive ride go through on their way over Bealach na Ba 626m to Applecross. They had the road closed for them. We had planned to do this ride but with Jen out of action, Greg opted for a shorter ride along the Loch to the end of the road. Jen sat in lounge absorbing the view over the misty Loch Carron and hoping she’d be OK to ride again tomorrow. Dinner again at Lochcarron Hotel. Saturday 1/9/2018.

Cycle Scotland Day 7

Lochcarron to Kyle of Lochalsh. 42.5km 649vm A bit of Scotch mist and wind.
Another hearty full cooked breakfast. We decided Jen’s saddle was a fraction too low and that had caused her intense knee and lower quad pain. With a slight adjustment we hopefully set off.

Rode back out of town to road junction to rejoin the A890. Now cycling along the other side of Loch Carron looking back across to Lochcarron which had the morning sun shining on it.

Very steep climb up Attadale hill past Attadale Gardens. Good timing as signs indicated a section of this road was closing the next day for repairs. A very narrow section between Loch and rock cliff (rock falls every year) where both the road and the railway sneak through.

Lookout over the Loch above Stromferry, then it was down, down into Plockton Village. Lunch at Plockton Pub. Good thing we nourished ourselves as next we came upon a huge climb up on a rough surface getting to a gradient of 19%. Rather a rollercoaster of up, down, up, down. Stopped for the sheep being herded on the road at Duirinish.

Settlement of Drumbuie, that seemed to have a bus stop and a letter box and just a few houses. We were starting to get our first glimpses of the Isle of Skye and just make out the Skye Bridge in the mist. Arrived at Kyle of Lochalsh to find the Main Street closed, making it a little difficult to find the Old Bank House on this street, where we were staying. A few issues with bookings.com and cancellation emails being sent out had our host in a bit of a tizz. Our usual evening walk to explore the town. Snug in a window seat at Hector’s Bothy for a cider, followed by coffee at Lochalsh Hotel - large white Hotel on wharf side which we returned to for dinner. From here we were overlooking the Skye Bridge which we were due to cross in the morning. Greg is not a bridge rider and was worried about this. Sunday 2/9/2018

Cycle Scotland Day 8

Kyle of Lochalsh to Flodigarry (Isle of Skye). 88.6km 1033vm. Clear skies and some sunshine. We chose to walk the bikes over the Skye Bridge – very high and exposed. The Isle of Skye: 50 miles x 25 miles.

Heading along Loch Sligachan – it was not until we studied the map, did we realise this was a finger of the sea and that it was not an island on the other side. We were having to go around this inlet loch. Most magnificent views all along, then down, to a waterfall, the Old Bridge and the road junction where we stopped for a coffee at Sligachan to prepare for the long slow climb up to Allt Dubh viewpoint with views to the Cuillin Hills.

A brief stop in the harbour town of Portree, the largest town on the Isle of Skye with its colourful house fronts. Lunch at Lower Deck on Harbour, cod fish cakes & smoked kippers. From here the road narrows in sections with potholes and drop edges in places and even narrower when going through a farm property.

The Storr (Old Man of Storr) - first sighting was near Portree, then many more viewing points as we cycled north towards it, with Loch Leathan to our right. Once past Storr, next we found we were high on the cliff top with stunning coastline views over a small cove, looking down onto a lower layer of pasture near Lealt Falls. Then we moved on to see the Kilt Rock Waterfall tumbling over the cliff to the ocean. This being the final water expulsion point of Loch Mealt and Mealt Falls. Even a kilted piper to play some haunting Scottish melodies to add to the atmosphere. So many stops to take in all this natural beauty.

We had to keep moving on to Staffin and further to our B & B at Dunans House just short of Flodigarry. Our hosts kindly driving us back into Staffin to have dinner at Columba 1400. Scottish salmon & Cottage pie plus the biggest apple crumble & custard. Monday 3/9/2018.

Cycle Scotland Day 9

Flodigarry to Ose (Isle of Skye). 75.8km 1086vm
Leaving our B&B in bright sunshine, required a walk back up to the road as an incredibly steep driveway. Identified the Rowan Trees growing in the garden and on roadsides with the bright red berries. (Jen has a son named Rowan).

More spectacular scenery with views of the Quiraing mountain peak, all the way to Flodigarry. First part of the ride to the northern tip of Skye and heading south again was mainly pastures, with heather covered moors on the higher slopes, sheep on green paddocks and lazing on the roadsides, little white houses with loaded washing lines flapping on a sunny day. Rounding the northern tip of Skye to Kilmuir, pausing at the Kilmuir Cemetery, famous for the grave and memorial of Flora Macdonald, we explored the Museum of Island Life. More stunning coastal views before a very steep descent down off the high cliff into Uig. Continued south on the A87 until turning into A850 to head towards Dunvegan, skirting around Loch Snizort Beag. Today’s ride has been pretty light on shops so we resorted to Tanners caramel wafers.

This second half of the ride was all moorland. The wind and rain clouds picked up on the western side, looking like we we’re going to get wet, but it skirted around us. Found Janns cake shop in Dunvegan, and we devoured some hot soup, hot chocolate and energy slice. Finally arriving at our accommodation at 12 Ose, a self-contained unit with a view. So glad to have 2 nights here. Our host kindly drove us to Dunvegan for dinner at The Old School House. Tuesday 4/9/2018.

Wednesday 5th September 2018 Day 10

Ose - Dunvegan Castle – Ose (Isle of Skye). 20.66km 241vm. Mainly a rest day and wet day so just decided to cycle to Dunvegan Castle & gardens. The oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland & ancestral home of the Chiefs of Clan MacLeod for 800 years. Parking our bikes we walked through the castle rooms - the Fairy Flag, the Dunvegan Cup, the Red Man. Great portraits. Then explored the gardens - water garden, walled garden, round garden. It started to seriously rain so ducked into the cafe for soup & hot chocolate. With a break in the rain, we cycled quickly back into Dunvegan – stocked up with dinner supplies & bottle of wine and managed the ride back to 12 Ose without rain. The rest of the afternoon was a relaxing time in a snug unit.  Wednesday 5/9/2018.

Cycle Scotland Day 11

Ose to Tarskavaig (Isle of Skye). 90.6km 1124vm
Waited for a shower to pass then off and away by 8.30 and we were then blessed with sunshine all day. Our main backdrop for the day was views of the Cuillin mountains to the south of us. They formed a stunning silhouette outline as we circled around them all day.

Closing our loop of Skye as we returned to the Sligichan junction and rejoined main A87 road south. Passing Sconser we saw the ferry crossing to Isle of Raasay. So as to travel a different route we detoured around the coast to Moll rather than going over that big hill again. Very rough single track but so good to be away from the main traffic. Salmon farms hugging the coast in protected waters, old stone cottages and stone bridges.

Rejoining the A87 we stopped in Broadford for calamari & chips and picked up some dinner basics at the Coop shop for dinner. Once again, we were staying well away from bars and restaurants but at least we were wise to this now. Now on a new route as we turned south towards Armadale on A851 finding the coast again at Isleornsay - stop at hotel for beer. Very pretty spot with a small lighthouse on island. Tempted to stay as we knew the next section could be tough. Tough it was. Crossing over this section of land with some serious hills on the B road with 20% ups & downs. Single track, overgrown road to Ord and on to Tarskavaig. Yes, some walking involved. Amazing camp spot between Tokavaig & Tarskavaig - views of the Cuillins (this time to the north of us). Very glad to arrive at The Willows in Tarskavaig. Thursday 6/9/2018.

Cycle Scotland Day 12

Tarskavaig (IoS) to Lochailort. 43.3km 886vm plus a ferry crossing back to the mainland. First task was to get up out of Tarskavaig – we managed half way up first hill then had to walk. Did a bit more walking later on. Ridiculously steep and narrow. First 5 Km up then on top and down the other side, crossing back over this finger of land again and back to the ocean at Armadale. Rejoining the main road at Kilbeg, the road we came out of had a repeat of the '20% no caravans' sign we saw when we turned onto this B road yesterday. We had time to tour the Armadale Castle (ruins), gardens & Museum of the Isles. Part of traditional lands of Clan Donald (one of the oldest and biggest of the Scottish Clans) and Clan MacDonald (Sons of Donald) of Sleat.

We now had a ferry to catch, having arrived at 11.45 we were straight onto the 12.15 ferry to Mallaig. £5.80 for both. First on. Bikes strapped in & off we went a 59-minute crossing. As we disembarked from the ferry, we could smell steam train smoke and hear the hissing and pfffing of steam. Excitedly we raced to the station to see the Jacobite Train (Hogwarts Express) which had just come in from Fort William. Before cycling on we stopped at the Tea Garden Cafe for the best Cullen Skink and tea. Traditional Cullen Skink – thick Scottish soup of smoked haddock, leek & potato finished with double cream.

The cycle south of Mallaig was another family history discovery tour. Jen’s father was a member of the Czechoslovak Independent Brigade during WWII, who underwent commando training for the British Special Operations Executive (SOE) in the Scottish Highlands based at Arisaig. (1941-43).

Following the A830 we pass through Morar, leave the A830 to take the B8008 (Columba Road), through the village, over the River Morar, with Loch Morar to the east of Road, then cross back over the A830 and take the coast B8008 again. Now passing the Silver Sands of Morar, beaches and holiday settlements and campsites, continuing to Arisaig.

Photos kept by Jen's father from 1941 from SOE training in Arisaig

The reason for visiting Arisaig was to find the Czechoslovakian Special Operations Executive Training Memorial erected in 2009, and 2 rough shaped granite stones with flat polished faces bearing the inscriptions of 71 names (of those who perished on missions) and the names of the 48 missions. Another stone has further information inscribed into it. The memorial is a triangular column of sculpted polished granite with a partly deflated parachute over the top of the column as if it had just fallen and caught on the column, the cords being engraved into the sides of the column. “In memory of all Czech and Slovak soldiers who trained here in 1941-1943 as S.O.E. Agents”

Since visiting, a number of years later, a friend sent a photo of another stone (perhaps more recently placed) with a list of names of 54 (maybe more) – “They Fought and Survived” which includes Jen’s father and one of his dear friends (a piece of Czech granite).

SOE Memorial Arisaig	Sent later after our visit

We paused here for a while to remember them and placed some wildflowers on the memorial. Jen’s father often spoke about his time in the Scottish Highlands and the very basic parachute training received along with hand-to-hand combat and commando training in all types of sabotage activities.

Special Operations Executive (SOE) 1942-1943 Czechoslovakian Special Parachute and Commando Training - one particularly renowned mission was Anthropoid - the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich in Prague. This memorial is located on the shoreline overlooking Loch nan Ceall near the Post Office, along from the Land, Sea and Island Centre who hold considerable history of SOE operations in the area. Many of the old homes in the area were used as the accommodation for the various allied troops in training.

Moving on from the ghosts of the past we cycled on in silence for a while passing some of the old houses where perhaps these young men spent some of their time. Cycling around another sea Loch Nan Uamh and a stop at the Loch nan Uamh railway viaduct, but no Jacobite today. The final section was to head inland (really just crossing yet another finger of land) and come to Loch Ailort and our destination for the day the Lochailort Inn. Strangely the bar attendant happened to be a Czech girl and as we went outside to enjoy our beers in the sunshine a beautiful double rainbow appeared, rising out of the Scottish Highlands. So often when we’ve been tracing Jen’s father’s history a weather event has happened around us, be it storms, rays of sunlight beaming down, lightning or rainbows, as if he is looking down on us and hopefully approving of our adventures. Friday 7/9/2018

Photos kept by Jen's father from 1941 - the road we follow tomorrow.

Cycle Scotland Day 13

Lochailort to Inchree (Onich). 62.5km 497vm and the Corran Ferry Crossing.
Breakfasts have been superb, today salmon & scrambled eggs.

Rode down to Loch Ailort to view the salmon hatchery. Then back up to A830 where we cycled alongside Loch Eilt until we came to the one real climb for the day, climbing from Loch Eilt, up and over and back down to Loch Shiel. This 3km climb on a narrow road, hugging a rock wall to our left, Jen knew the traffic was banking up behind us and could hear a truck wheezing and gear changing right behind her. Being courteous, she decided to stop and pull over to the edge of the road. Alas the narrow mossy green edge just off the tarmac, where she put her resting foot down was camouflaging a deep ditch, which she toppled into. Upside down between the road and the rock wall with no harm done. Cars kindly stopping as they slowly went past to check on her. Lesson learnt – just keep peddling, only pull over when there is space.

We were heading for the Glenfinnan viaduct in the hope of catching the Jacobite train crossing it but realising we probably wouldn’t make it in time and finding a place to stop alongside the railway line we decided to wait roadside for the Jacobite train to come through. After a 45-minute wait we were treated to see the rising smoke plume and hear the train as it approached us. Such a sight to see it carving its way through the highlands, even though filling the air with smog!

Riding on to Glenfinnan and Loch Shiel we first inspected the mighty Glenfinnan Viaduct (21 arch span railway viaduct built in 1901, featured in several Harry Potter movies), then crossed to see the Glenfinnan Monument (monument to the highlanders who banded together for the Jacobite uprising) on the edge of Loch Shiel.

Continuing, we turned onto A861 and followed the south side of Loch Eil. Flat, quiet and narrow ride all way to Ardgour. Passing many Salmon farms, community log pile in each village (Croft), and sheep everywhere. Loch Eil narrowed then opened to Loch Linnhe with Fort William on other side and Ben Nevis once again shrouded in cloud.

Followed Loch Linnhe to Ardgour, rolling our bikes straight onto 3.30 ferry to Corran. A further kilometre on from Corran was our accommodation in Inchree - Glendevin B&B. Saturday 8/9/2018. 

Cycle Scotland Day 14

Inchree to North Connel. 58km 552vm. The forecast did not look good for this day - a dreich kind of day! National Cycle Route 78 kept us off the main road most of the time. Reaching Onich, sheltering in a bus stop with heavy rain and very low cloud, we sadly made the call not to venture to Glencoe (on the busy A82) but head straight for our destination. Cutting 20-30km off our day and visibility in Glencoe would have been poor.

Crossing the Ballachulish Bridge over Loch Leven we picked up the cycle track again. This allowed us to cross the rather special boardwalk hiker’s Jubilee Bridge over the saltmarsh (The Marach), with views to nearby Castle Stalker, ending up at Port Appin (dead end), where we opted for more Cullin Skink, bread & hot chocolate to warm us up, before backtracking to the village of Appin. Back on track we came to Creagan and the Creagan bridge over Loch Creran with the very strong winds forcing us to walk over the bridge.

With lots of rain coming down and by now very chilled we were glad to arrive at the Lochnell Arms Hotel at North Connel overlooking Loch Etive. Sunday 9/9/2018.

Cycle Scotland Day 15

North Connel to Inveraray. 62.8km 764vm. Leaving North Connel over Connel bridge (old railway bridge) we rejoined cycle route 78 south then east to Taynuilt on lesser roads. Following the river with lovely valley farms and many Highland Cows ambling along our narrow road and black sheep grazing the fields, with the most cyclists we’d seen all trip on this back road.  

Rested at Taynuilt, continued on the A85 for about 20km, along the west arm of Loch (River) Awe past Cruachan Hollow Mountain Hydro Station. Rounding the head of Loch Awe at Kilchurn Castle, now on the A819 following Loch Awe before heading for the hills again and making the final run down Glen Aray to Inveraray, by now pouring with rain for our last 20 km. Cold and wet we arrived at the George Hotel overlooking Loch Fyne (this time an ocean loch). Too early for check in, bikes were parked in their bunkhouse and we warmed up with hot soup. Checking in we had a room upgrade due to a boiler failure and no hot water. On returning from our town walk, where we occupied ourselves learning about the whiskey trade and admiring the many tartans on show, we were once again upgraded. This time to the owners Ferryman’s House with its own Jacuzzi. Nice indeed.

Jen Connal 2018 Cycle Scotland	Kate Connal 1934 Cycle Scotland

More Scottish fare with gravlax salmon, smoked grilled salmon, venison sausages, bottle of Tempranillo wine , Scottish strawberries & Chantilly cream. Despite the rain it was a great day, finished with good food and fantastic accommodation. Monday 10/9/2018.

Cycle Scotland Day 16

Inveraray to Helensburgh. 65.6km 746vm. Before leaving a walk around the white painted buildings of Inveraray. The Old Gaol, East & West side of Main Street. As we cycled out of town, we stopped at Inveraray Castle surrounded by stunning gardens, owned by Duke & Duchess of Argyle.

We crossed the old Array Bridge as we left town on the A83, which is the Old Military Road. We had to round the top of Loch Fyne before starting the 8km climb up to the Rest and Be Thankful Pass. Strong head and cross winds for last push to the top making it tough going. Fortunately, a Food Van was operating at the top of the pass - hot chocolate. Quite a lot of traffic on this road with heavy log trucks in sections. Rain again for the rest of the day. We found the Old Military Road to take us down Glen Croe, which was a much better option than the busy main road. This required bike lifts over about 3 gates; cattle & sheep to dodge along with their droppings all over the road; stone walls and fences; lots of waterfalls into the glen. We were warned there was a bull, but he was stuck in the mud. This old road ended with a weird bit of very new road at the bottom section with signs & speed humps, but going where?

Glen Croe on the Old Military road - busy main road higher on the slope.

Again, having to round the head of Loch Long before heading south and a last very steep climb (1:6 on sign) to get us over to Gare Loch. Interesting road past the very large Neptune Naval Base with roundabouts with gates to allow missile carriers through the centre. This is the British navy’s headquarters in Scotland and home of nuclear submarines armed with Trident missiles. The road from this point on was very good finally returning us to Helensburgh. Celebrating the completion of our Scottish Highland Cycle circuit, we stopped at Sugar Boat Wine Bar for glass of sparkling, coffee & cake, but being very wet and cold we quickly moved on and returned to our friends’ home. So nice to be back with the family, warm showers, laundry, cups of tea and a rest. Tuesday 11/9/2018.

Scottish Highlands Cycle Tour Summary
16 Days 3 wet days.
Total km ➡️ 1035.73km  Greg: Plus 25km
Av/day 64.73km
Total 11787m ⬆️

Helensburgh to Edinburgh 

The following day bikes were repacked into bags, farewelled our friends and trained to Edinburgh Haymarket station. Found our accommodation in central Edinburgh where we were staying for 3 nights before heading south into England for our Coast-to-Coast cycle. The next two days were spent exploring Edinburgh with our friend Tony who is accompanying us on our next ride. Walked the Royal Mile to the Edinburgh Castle, colourful, curved, 2 level Victoria Street, more wandering in the side streets off the Royal Mile.

Visited the Ocean Terminal at Leith port for a tour of Royal Yacht Britannia. No rivets. Classy, understated. Soup & tea on deck in the tearoom. Returned to Waverley station to check on trains for our departure the following day, as there was some industrial action underway. That evening we had dinner with Mary Crawford, a distant cousin to Greg, who has lived all her life in either Glasgow or Edinburgh. Interestingly, compared to our Australian need to all have a driver's licence, she has never had one and never felt she needed one, catching the bus home from dinner with us. 

The following day the 3 of us boarded the train with our 2 bikes (Tony was picking up a hire bike at St Bees), leaving Scotland and hopefully with the help of a bus, getting us to the west coast of England to start our Coast-to-Coast cycle at St Bees.

Hope you enjoyed the ride with us.
Jen and Greg

Maps:

Scotland Cycling Tour Map

Scotland pre cycle drive map Edinburgh to Helensburgh

Reference Notes:

Accommodation:

• Aberfeldy: Balnearn House. Dinner at Fountains Bar.
• Fort William: Campfield House B&B 6 km south of town on A82. Grog & Gruel Ale House.
• Fort Augustus: Morag’s Lodge (hostel).
• Inverness: Averon House B&B. Dinner at Corriegarth Hotel.
• Lochcarron: Lochcarron Aultsigh B&B
• Kyle of Lochalsh: The Old Bank House
• Flodigarry: Dunans House B & B. Dinner at Columba 1400 in Staffin.
• Ose: 12 Ose. Dinner at The Old School House Dunvegan.
• Lochailort: Lochailort Inn.
• Corran - Inchree - Glendevin B&B.
• North Connel: Lochnell Arms Hotel.
• Inveraray: The George Hotel.

Haggis is a savoury pudding containing sheep's pluck; minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and cooked while traditionally encased in the animal's stomach though now often in an artificial casing instead. Main ingredients: Sheep's heart, liver and lungs, and stomach (or sausage casing); onion, oatmeal, suet, spices.

Black pudding is a type of blood sausage originating in Great Britain and Ireland. It is made from pork blood, pork fat or beef suet and a cereal, usually oatmeal, oat groats or barley groats. Main ingredients: Pork blood, fat, oats or barley. (Ref Wikipedia).