Cycling Tour Coast to Coast England

Cycling Tour Coast to Coast England (C2C)

This cycling adventure in England followed on from our Cycling Tour of the Scottish Highlands.

After our cycle in Scotland, we met with our good friend Tony in Edinburgh and headed further south into England. Here the 3 of us cycled the Coast to Coast from St Bees on the west coast to Whitby on the east coast. From Whitby we relocated to Ilkley and visited Leeds and the Leeds University archives (where Jen’s mother was a student and her grandfather was a Professor for many years). Leeds University Athletic Club was the base from which Katharine Connal set a British record and went on to represent Great Britain at the 1936 Berlin Olympics. Whilst staying in Ilkley we explored some of the Yorkshire countryside on our bikes (adding the stats for this day to our C2C ride).

C2C Cycle Tour Summary
7 Days St Bees to Whitby + 1 Day Ilkley
1 storm alert over 2 days post-tropical cyclone Helene
333.17km + 80.5 total 413.67km; 5600vm + 1628 = 7228vm.
Cycle day in Ilkley - Ilkley, Bolton Abbey, Grassington, Pateley Bridge, Ilkley.

Transit from Edinburgh to St Bees on the west coast of England. The 3 of us met at Waverley Station, Edinburgh, and caught the 12:52 train to Carlisle with our 2 bike bags safely loaded into the rear carriage (Tony was picking up a hire bike at St Bees). Due to industrial action, this was the last train for the day and only taking us as far as Carlisle. From Carlisle it was necessary to catch the 3:45pm bus to Whitehaven, stranding us here with no ongoing service to take us the last leg of the journey to St Bees. Lucky for us a local St Bees man had called up his local taxi (minivan) to pick him up from the bus & shared the ride with us and dropped us at the front of the Queens Hotel St Bees just after 6pm. Saturday 15^th September 2018.

Cycle C2C Day 1 Sunday.
St Bees Lighthouse & Beach (Cumbria), 30.65km 615vm.

Our first day was really to test the bikes, explore St Bees and dip the bikes into the water on the West Coast before heading on our eastward cycle. Our bikes needed rebuilding; Tony had hired a bike which he needed to familiarize himself with. Our bike bags and surplus luggage were picked up by Sherpavan, who delivered to our Whitby accommodation the following Friday.

St Bees Lighthouse checking shoes for cow poop!

To get our bearings, we first walked Sea Mill Lane to the beach and along to St Bees beach with the prominent St Bees Head rising up. Then onto the bikes and out to St Bees Lighthouse then back & across to Egremont (the village suffering from the morning after a festival!). Returned to the beach at Sea Mill Lane for a ritual back wheel dipping to start the Coast to Coast. Our final foray uncovered such treasures as the Statue St Bega; St Bees Priory Church; the Knight of St Bees; St Bees Man; and local artist Chris Robson. Sunday 16^th September 2018.

St Bees Beach dip - West Coast of England

Cycle C2C Day 2 Monday
St Bees to Boot (Cumbria) 50km 556vm. Leaving at 9.45am, another cycling adventure begins to unfold as we set our own course for this Coast-to-Coast crossing of England.

First, we followed the coast to Nethertown and Braystones, then started eastwards to Beckermet and Calder Bridge. The Sellafield nuclear reprocessing plant was visible on the coast a little further south. Our first coffee stop was Gosforth. From here we wanted to see Wastwater, even though it was a little off our route and meant a little backtracking. Fields were fenced with immaculate jigsaw like dry stone walls. From Nether Wasdale we came to the edge of Wastwater - steep scree sides sliding down from the high crags on the far side, it took our breath away. Being the deepest lake in England and under Scaffel Pike, the highest peak in England, it is a mecca for hikers. Scafell Pike was shrouded in cloud. We cycled as far as Wasdale Head where we stopped for lunch at Ritson’s Bar in the Wasdale Head Inn - baked potatoes & fillings.

Wastwater - deepest lake in Enhgland under Scaffel Pike.

Emerging from this lunch, it was raining. We rode in the rain as we backtracked to the junction, then on to Eskdale. We came across the mini steam train on the Ravenglass & Eskdale steam Railway at its terminus at Dalegarth after passing over it on a bridge a little earlier. At the turn-off to Boot we were confronted with a sign “! 30%” on the road we were taking tomorrow over the Hardknott Pass. “Road suitable for cars and light vehicles only 4 miles ahead. Unsuitable for all vehicles in winter conditions”. We stayed at the Boot Inn and had a walk around the village in the evening with its lovely views in the Eskdale Valley and the River Esk. Over our dinner, we had much discussion about the road ahead of us, as the weather forecast was looking very bleak for the next couple of days. Monday 17^th September 2018.

Cycle C2C Day 3 Tuesday
Boot to Kendal 48.5km 1189vm Av 7.8kph 6h11m. This day turned into long lasting memories that we still laugh about today. Not so at the time. 

As feared from the forecast the weather for our crossing of the Hardknott Pass and the Wrynose Pass was worse than atrocious.

Our riding conditions from weather reports: Post-tropical cyclone Helene developed off the west coast of Africa and moved north then northeast bringing heavy rain and wind. (17-18^th September 2018). A yellow alert in place (a spell of very windy weather gusts of up to 50-60 mph). September 19th-21st there was an unseasonal strong Atlantic storm hitting England and Scotland – storm Ali was a particularly powerful storm with high winds and heavy rainfall. One of the most notable storms in recent decades. Followed by storm Bronagh.

Weather conditions for cycling Hardknott and Wrynose

We managed a dry start as we left the Boot Inn, but it soon darkened with low clouds and the driving rain started. Arriving at the 30% incline warning sign again, and the red telephone box which marks the start of the Hardknott Pass climb, we continued up. As we started the climb, we first had to negotiate a wide, wet, slippery metal cattle grid. By now the roads were wet, the incline had slowed us, our wheels were losing traction, the grid was wet and slippery. Jen, attempting to cross the grid without enough forward momentum to go straight across, managed to wobble slightly, front wheel slipped on the metal and went sideways into the grid, and down she went heavily onto the steel rails of the grid. Jen recalls her arm going down between 2 steel bars into the pit as the bike came down on top of her. She was incredibly lucky not to break her arm, leg or hip, but instead the heavy landing left her in pain for the rest of this day and very heavy bruising around knee and quad for the rest of the trip. Needless to say she was very quiet for the rest of this day as she just kept on peddling through the storm. 

Cycling the Hardknott and Wrynose passes in atrocious weather conditions.

The driving rain and strong winds continued until we were down from the passes. The single-track, twisting road with traffic also attempting to drive in both directions, meant we often were forced to pull over to allow them through, making it incredibly difficult to remount and start pedalling our loaded bikes, when on such a steep climb on a road that was virtually underwater. The conditions were so bad we met 1 car that had already passed us on the way up, coming back down - they’d turned back as they were afraid to continue to the top. We continued on as we had no other way to go. We weren’t even interested in stopping to see the Roman Fort. We rode bits and walked a fair bit of Hardknott until the incline eased allowing us to cycle a bit further along and down into Cockley Beck and the lovely Dudden Valley section between the passes. The grey mountain Herdwick and Swaledale sheep and lambs looked miserable as they hunched with their backsides to the storm. The Becks and streams were pouring like waterfalls off the mountains.

The Hardknott shares the title of steepest road in England with another in North Yorkshire. Known as one of the hardest, challenging and most epic climbs to ride on two wheels in England. Well, that’s on a good day, not a Yellow Alert Day with one of the most notable storms in decades accompanying us. We would love to ride it again on a sunny day, but how do you guarantee that, especially when travelling from Australia to ride this region.

Next was the Wrynose Pass between the Duddon Valley and Little Langdale, still single track, still awash with water. We manage to ride most of the Wrynose Pass known to be slightly less challenging, only walking the last bit. The downhill from here was very steep with a big drop off on the side of the road. This proved even more difficult, with traffic coming up from the other side, the road a stream, the disc brakes howling as they tried to steady the bikes. Greg and Tony who were leading ended up indicating back to Jen to get off and walk down as it was way too dangerous and the brakes were battling to slow them. The cars coming up were also having difficulty negotiating the gushing water without having to avoid zigzagging cyclists trying to brake hard.  

Brief reprieve from the cold and rain at Three Shires Inn

What a relief to be finally down from these 2 extraordinary passes on the wildest of days, we were soaking wet and by now freezing cold. The first pub was an incredibly welcoming site.  The stone Three Shires Inn was warm and welcoming as we dripped and made puddles on their dark slate floor. After a warming drink and retrieving some dry clothes from our bags we did a quick change and kept going. Just to humour us it actually stopped raining. By now just wanting to get to our destination, we continued with our original route - Ambleside, Windermere (lunch stop) - very touristy, lots of people, lots of traffic. Then across to Kendal. A relief to finally arrive at 4.30pm staying at the Shakespeare Inn, meeting up with some of Tony’s friends for dinner.

A day not to be forgotten!!!! Jen shed some silent tears and swear words today, was bruised and sore from her fall, but considered herself very lucky not to have sustained a broken bone. No option but to continue on. Tuesday 18^th September 2018.

Tony’s memories of this ride: “Whether we could have done it in drier conditions without stopping a couple of times I’m not so sure. I remember being very thankful for having disk brakes and finding an open pub in which to warm up and dry off!”

Cycle C2C Day 4 Wednesday
Kendal to Middleham 76.64km 1594vm.
We were quickly out of Kendal on cycle tracks thanks to some local knowledge. Tony’s friend Phil rode with us, guiding us out of Kendal for about 16 km to the top of the hill - out of the Lake District & overlooking the Yorkshire Dales.

Narrow roads with overgrown hawthorn hedges protruding onto the road resulted in the next downhill picking up a thorn and a flat tyre in Killington for one of our bikes. After a speedy tyre change, we made haste to Sedbergh but the rain once again hit us on the approach. Tony had attended school in Sedbergh and he gave us a quick tour.

More rain followed by really strong winds all afternoon, with the ‘Yellow alert’ wind warning gusting to 60mph. Fortunately the hedges protected us somewhat until we came to a gateway or gap in the hedge and the wind was so strong it was moving the bikes sideways when it hit us. We have never ridden in such strong wind. Wind whistling through the trees and fences. Having to hold strongly onto the bikes to keep them upright against severe cross wind gusts and leaning into the wind with each gust that hit us.  

Cycling along Wensley Dale in the Yorkshire Dales which was a simply stunning glacial u-shaped valley. Lush green valley floor gently rising to the moorland hilltops, drystone fences, stone huts/shelters, sheep scattered through the fields, the River Ure winding through the valley, streams coming down from the hills and joining the river. Also the home to Wensleydale Cheese.

Approaching Middleham we crossed the old Middleham single suspension bridge. It acted like an extreme wind tunnel and as we entered the bridge we were scooped into a swirling and twisting wind as we tried to quickly cross. Middleham is the centre of racehorse training and the horses are taken through town in the mornings to the Middleton Moor Gallops. Many stables are on edge of town.

The route was an excellent ride (without the wind) with good roads, not much traffic. The strong winds made for a draining and tiring day, constantly being alert for a strong gust to push the bike over or worse wobbling into traffic, on the watch for fallen and falling debris when going under the roadside oaks & chestnuts.

Arrived at The Dante Arms (formerly the Black Swan) with an it’s sign (racehorse painting) swinging in the wind and squeaking!  Dinner at the character country Inn the Blue Lion East Whitten with more of Tony’s friends.

The storm had been chasing us across the country and the forecast for the next day was for 80-100 mm of rain and local flooding. We made the call to book a Sherpa Van to pick us up and take us to Helmsley tomorrow morning, avoiding an 80km ride in torrential rain. If the weather was clear at Helmsley we could ride a circuit from there to make up for the lost ground. Then continue our ride to the east coast from there. Wednesday 19^th September 2018.

Cycle C2C Day 5 Thursday
Middleham to Helmsley – by Sherpa, then cycle Helmsley loop. 37.38km 331vm. The forecast was still really bad with lots of rain & flooding for the afternoon.

Our booked Sherpa Van picked us up at 7am and drove us to Helmsley via Thirsk. (cost ₤45 each). The drive took us up the 25% climb on the Sutton Bank road - glad we didn’t cycle that, but it hadn’t been on our planned route. Arrived in the market town of Helmsley about 8.15am to a bit of sunshine, giving us the whole day to do a loop ride around Helmsley (hoping to make up for the gap in our C2C route). Our cycle loop took in the villages of Helmsley, Sproxton, Hovingham, Nunnington (called into Nunnington House), Wombleton, Harome, and back to Helmsley. We found the countryside much flatter, larger farms, crops and great back roads to cycle on. A bonus for us was coming across the breeders’ sheep sale at Old Wombleton Aerodrome. Temporary yards set up on the old airfield. We spoke to some young local farmers who told us all about the sale.  Cycling these quiet country roads, we disturbed many grouse and pheasant living in the roadside hedges, who scuttled away in surprise.

Wombleton Sale of 4378 breeding sheep and store lambs.

We were able to check into our accommodation at The Royal Oak Hotel overlooking the Market Square, early in the afternoon, giving us the rest of the day to explore the town. Hensley Castle stone fortress ruins then it was fun to do some window shopping as there was a great selection of interesting shops, including ‘Best Small Shop in England’ (2015) – Hunters of Helmsley – a farm deli with an enormous selection of gourmet food items. Others - Book shop, Country Fashion shops, some shops seemed small but when inside they went upstairs or out the back. The forecast rain started, and we were ducking from shop to shop dodging the downpour. Thursday 20^th September 2018.

Cycle C2C Day 6 Friday
Helmsley to Whitby. 68km 995vm.

Leaving our hotel, the rather depleted markets (due to the weather) were happening in the market square. Using the back roads we had discovered on the previous day, we cycled through a series of small, quaint villages: Harome (with thatched houses & The Star Inn), Wombleton, Welburn, Edstone, Marton and onto Pickering where we stopped for coffee and cake. Along the way we came across horses being ridden on back roads, others coming to greet us over their fences, lots of horse chestnuts dropping conkers, villages with stone houses, orange tile roofs, open common space in front of houses making the villages look spacious, Red Royal Mail vans busily delivering to every corner, even a mobile Post Office. Lots to keep us amused on this cloudy & brisk day. A ‘blustery day’, as described by a friendly walking Yorkshireman. In Pickering we came across the NYMR North Yorkshire Moors Railway (NYMR) at the Station with their steam train in action.

From Pickering we headed north through Newton-on-Rawcliffe, Stape and on through the Yorkshire Moors. Large production farmland at first, then crossing another huge cattle grid, we were on to the high, wild, open moorland. Just heather browning off, wild, windy, couple of low Ford crossings. One covered in water - Greg crossed, Tony & I took the narrow walk bridge option. Sunshine coming and going - just showing it off in all its glory. Signs of the ancient stretch of Wheeldale Roman Road amid the wild moorland. Top of the Moors a hunting party was gathering with retriever dogs. We could see our destination with views down to the ocean and Whitby.

Yorkshire Moors looking to the east coast and Whitby

We took a ridiculously steep road called Egton Cliff rising at 33%, between Egton Bridge and Egton. I believe, Tony managed to ride this, but being food depleted and at 3pm, we certainly didn’t have our hearts in it. Hence our overdue stop at Egton for Tomato & Herb soup at The Witching Post Inn. We were certainly cheered up by the food and entertained by the amusing stories and wonderful hospitality from the landlord putting a smile back on Jen’s face when she was at an ‘hangry’ time. Gave us some recommendations on Whitby and a road to ride to Whitby on.

Started to rain as we left here, following instructions to take the second right - which had a ‘road closed’ sign on it. We tried our luck and got through - only minor road works. Great quiet road with superb views of the valley leading down into Whitby. Black clouds over Whitby - even a brief rainbow. Through the village of Aislaby, then on to Whitby West Cliff. The approach to the town was stunning with a cliff down to the ocean, colourful beach huts down on the beach below, the harbour entrance, the Whitby Abbey ruins across the harbour dominating the skyline. Our stopping point was a whale bone arch framing the Abbey behind and a statue of Captain Cook overlooking the West and East Pier of Whitby Harbour.

We found our respective lodgings where our luggage had been delivered. We were at Chiltern Guest House, a small terrace house, and Tony at The Angel Hotel (Witherspoon) on the harbour.

As we walked down to the harbour, the setting sun was shining a bright light onto the Abbey ruins, with a backdrop of dark storm clouds, made for a rather haunting sight along with a replica of the endeavour in the harbour.

We dined at The Resolution Hotel, celebrating our Coast-to-Coast cycle and sharing a bottle of Prosecco. Friday 21^st September 2018.

The following day we spent walking and exploring Whitby. We farewelled Tony who was heading off to Manchester and his flight home.

Cycle C2C Day 7 Sunday
Whitby to Robin Hoods Bay & return 22km 320vm. Our final day on the Coast to Coast following the coast south of Whitby to Robin Hoods Bay and return.

A loop ride today first along The Cinder Track to Robin Hoods Bay. Initially hiding from the rain in a tunnel waiting for the weather to clear. Originally a railway line connecting Scarborough to Whitby along the coast. We prudently decided to stop and leave our bikes at the top hotel (The Victoria Hotel) and walk down into Robin Hoods Bay. Proved to be a good choice, as we soon came across a 30% sign on the only road (Bay Bank) going down into the lower village. Just what you imagine a smugglers cove & village would be like. Narrow laneways, low doorways and secret passageways connecting the houses from bottom to top, a broad bay on a rugged coastline and backed by moorlands. Apparently, you could unroll a bale of silk through the secret passages connecting the houses from bottom to top without leaving the houses.

Retrieving our bikes from the Victoria Hotel garden on top of the cliffs we returned to Whitby via the roads, past the Abbey & down to harbour. Time to pack up our bikes ready for a relocation the next day to Ilkley.  Sunday 23^rd September 2018.

For our final few days in Yorkshire, we decided to base ourselves in Ilkley, not far out of Leeds but with easy access to some wonderful cycling countryside. Leaving Whitby by bus via Robin Hoods Bay to Scarborough, then train Scarborough to Leeds, followed by train Leeds to Ilkley, staying at the Dalesway Hotel where we had an upstairs room large enough for us along with our bikes & bags. The bikes were rebuilt once again.

Cycle Ilkley, Yorkshire Dales, Day 8 Wednesday.
Ilkley, Bolton Abbey, Grassington, Pateley Bridge, Ilkley. 80.5km 1628vm. Our last day on the bikes and we made it a good one through the Yorkshire Dales. Cycling along the River Wharfe to the ruins of Bolton Abbey and on through the Estate (an expanse of 33 thousand acres).

Continuing along Wharfedale to the once hunting lodge of Barden Tower – here we chatted to gardener raking up apples that had fallen during last week’s storm. The old stone Barden Bridge could be seen crossing the Wharfe. A stop in the lovely village of Burnsall with the village green on the banks of the River Wharfe and yet another arched stone bridge. Next stop was Grassington for lunch.

A long climb past fields of freshly cut hay and dry-stone walls making a jigsaw pattern in the fields, up to the Fell in the clouds. A long stretch up high with wonderful open views down into the valleys, with dotted stone farmhouses and buildings amongst the drystone walls. The bonus of a long climb, a long & steep descent down Greenhow Hill (with warnings of 16% and 14%) into Nidderdale and Pateley Bridge High Street. Obviously, a favoured cyclists’ route and still decked out with bunting from The Tour de Yorkshire. The most cyclists we have seen on our whole trip.

Now following the River Nidd to Darley Carr Road past Darley and Menwith on Menwith Hill and a side road called Moorcock Lane on to Menwith Hill Road to the top of Hardgroves Hill.

By now we were heading back towards Otley before heading west via West Lane and Denton Road back into Ilkley. Jen’s exhausted comment “That’s it I’m done with hills. I need a rest! But oh so beautiful.” (Wednesday 26^th September 2018).

Three more days were spent in Ilkley and Leeds, visiting an old family home, Leeds University archives digging for some more family history, paying respect to Grandparents, and doing a day trip to Haworth. 

The small village of Bramhope where Jen’s mother grew up and attended Leeds University, coming back to this prior to her emigration to Australia in 1954.  Jen’s grandfather was a professor at Leeds University for many years and her grandmother a headmistress at Leeds Girls High School. Leeds University Athletic Club was the base from which Katharine Connal set a British record and went on to represent Great Britain at the 1936 Berlin Olympics. 

Farwelling Yorkshire, we returned to Edinburgh by train to catch our flights back home to Perth, Western Australia. 

Cycle days 1 to 4 Coast to Coast England

Cycle days 5 to 7 Coast to Coast England

Cycle day 8 Ilkley, Yorkshire, England

Jen & Greg
A 2018 cycle finally written in 2024! 

Reference Notes:

Accommodation: 
St Bees: Queens Hotel.
Boot: The Boot Inn.
Kendal: Shakespeare Inn.
Middleham: The Dante Arms (formerly the Black Swan).
Helmsley: The Royal Oak Hotel.
Whitby: Chiltern Guest House and The Angel Hotel (Witherspoon) for Tony.
Ilkley: Dalesway Hotel.
Luggage Transfer: Sherpa Van.
Flights: Qatar Airlines (via Doha).